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What is Ghost Month and the Hungry Ghost Festival?

Do you believe in ghosts?

That’s always been the divisive question separating the non-believers from the sixth-sensers; the logical from the “open-minded”. In Taiwan, however, this question has a much more definitive answer.

The sincere belief in ghosts and the spiritual world is so deeply rooted in Taiwanese culture that as many as 70-90% of Taiwanese citizens acknowledge at least acknowledge its cultural significance. Even those who might not consider themselves true “believers” still observe many customs and superstitions surrounding the idea.

Though you may be picturing ghouls and goblins coming to haunt your dreams, it’s not quite as morbid as you might think. In fact, there’s an entire month dedicated to the spiritual underworld – known as Ghost Month – and a nationwide celebration called the Hungry Ghost Festival.

What is it? What does it involve? How is it celebrated, and why do Taiwanese people believe that spirits walk amongst us as we speak? Let’s answer all those questions and more!

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The topic of ghosts and underworld ghouls is more a source of horror for most Westerners. Shocking horror movies and old-fashioned campfire tales have played a part in making the idea of contacting the ghostly underworld more of a nightmare than anything spiritual.

Taiwan, on the other hand, looks at things a little differently. Belief in ghosts and the afterlife is an integral part of Taiwanese culture and is deeply rooted in a blend of Taoist, Buddhist, and Confucian beliefs as well as a few local folk religions.

Ghost Month is not an exclusively Taiwanese event. Its roots, much like Taiwan itself, originated in Southern China, particularly in the provinces of Fujian and Guangdong. During the 19th and 20th centuries, waves of migrants travelled across Southeast Asia to countries including Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, and Vietnam. By doing so, they brought their cultural traditions with them, including the sincere belief in the spiritual underworld and the aforementioned Ghost Month.

Celebrations in Taiwan. Photo by Sowhuan on Flickr

So, why the focus on Taiwan? The peculiar melting pot of religious ideals has amplified the festivities and allowed them to flourish far more than anywhere else. More importantly, Taiwan has always aimed to preserve their cultural traditions.

This is a little different to China, for instance, which hasn’t always been so open-minded. There was a little event known as the Cultural Revolution, during which, under the leadership of Mao Zedong, practices associated with superstition and religion were suppressed, as they were seen as counterproductive to modernisation and socialism. As such, the scale and visibility of the Hungry Ghost Festival diminished significantly across the Taiwan Strait.

Celebrations related to the Hungry Ghost Festival are seen across Taiwan’s major cities, including Tainan and Taipei. However, the most significant celebration of all takes place in a city called Keelung.

This humble little city plays host to the Keelung Ghost Festival – the biggest of its kind anywhere in the world. But why Keelung of all places? On the scale of significance, it’s only the 9th largest city in the country and is known for little outside of its deep-water port. Yet it’s that very port which is the reason why.

ghost month Zhuputan Temple
Offerings placed before Zhuputan Temple

For centuries, it made the city an important hub for trade and a point of contact with the outside world. As such, countless sailors and travellers passed through the area, leading locals to believe that the restless spirits of those who died far from home would linger in the city. With time, the Ghost Festival in Keelung evolved as a way for locals to appease these spirits and ensure they found peace in the afterlife.

While in the West, we use the standard Gregorian calendar, many Asian countries such as Japan, Malaysia, Vietnam, China and Taiwan widely use the lunar calendar, which is based on the moon’s cycles. This is only really used for cultural, religious, and traditional events, while day-to-day life still runs around the Gregorian calendar.

Many of Asia’s major festivals, such as the Lunar New Year, the Dragon Boat Festival, and the Mid-Autumn Festival, follow this lunar calendar, including Ghost Month. It lasts for the entirety of the 7th lunar month, with its peak hitting on the 15th day (which falls in August or early September). This day marks the official beginning of the Hungry Ghost Festival, which pretty accurately describes what the entire event is all about.

For a full chronicle of the event, check out Hungry Ghost Festival: A Foreigner’s Perspective!

Similar to how Mexico celebrate the Day of the Dead, the festival is dedicated to honouring the spirits of the deceased. That’s particularly true for the spirits who wander in the afterlife hungry or neglected by their living relatives.

ghost month offerings
Offerings during the Hungry Ghost Festival

On the 15th day of the lunar calendar, the gates of the underworld are said to open, unleashing the spirits upon the world and allowing them to roam freely amongst the living. By feeding them, the festival and its participants aim to pacify the new ghostly guests. This also ensures that the spirits no longer need to roam the Earth and refrain from bothering the living for the rest of the year.

As part of these hungry ghost celebrations, much like many other celebrations and festivals in Taiwan, there are several ritualistic practices which are done to appease the afterlife. These rituals also aim to ward off any negative energy or bad luck.

One of the most significant ritual practices in Taiwan is providing offerings for the souls beyond. During the festival, local families and businesses bring heaps of food and place them before altars and public spaces such as temples. This is mostly done during the evenings, the time when the spirits are thought to be most active. The banquets of treats are left out for the hungry spirits roaming the Earth who have come to feast.

ghost month temple
Offerings of food placed in front of Keelung Temple

Fruits, rice, meats, and symbolic items such as longevity noodles and lucky oranges are laid out in mass. Those also include sacrificial animals, such as pigs and goats, which are seen as symbols of wealth and prosperity. But don’t worry, these animals aren’t slaughtered in public… anymore

As a thoughtful touch, personal items might be laid out for specific individuals, made up of things they loved the most when they were alive.

Tragically, there’s no age limit to the spirits that walk the Earth. As such, it’s not uncommon to find toys also laid out for unfortunate little souls.

For the most part, all the offerings brought to these altars won’t go to waste. Instead, they’ll either be brought home to be enjoyed by the families that brought them or, better yet, donated to those in need.

Piles of joss paper beside incense sticks. Photo by David Boté Estrada via Flickr

Another common practice commonly seen throughout temples in Taiwan and even in front of many homes and businesses is burning enormous piles of brightly coloured paper, known as joss paper, or more to the point, “ghost money”.

The idea is that burning said money would, in turn, provide it to your family in the afterlife.

Another very common site across Asian temples is clouds of incense permeating the area. Other than creating an atmospheric aroma, it’s also used for quite a few symbolic reasons.

Its burning is used to facilitate communication with the spirits and connect us to the afterlife. It’s also believed to purify the area and to help carry prayers and offerings to the spiritual realm. Above all, burning incense ensures harmony between spirits and the living.

what is ghost month
Burning incense in a temple’s cauldron

But wait, how are these ghosts in question supposed to find the temples and offerings in the first place? They’re hardly able to use Google Maps or ask for directions now, are they?

Well, the Taiwanese have thought that through. Starting from rivers and beaches, paper lanterns are left out to guide the lost spirits towards the offerings that have been provided. You’ll find entire streets lit up the entire way towards temples and homes in an attempt to show them the way to the goldmine at the end.

what is ghost month
Lanterns lighting the way

An indisputable fact is that Taiwanese people, generally speaking, are incredibly superstitious.

For instance, hotels, apartment buildings, houses and aeroplane seats in Taiwan refuse to use the number 4 (四 sì) sounds too similar to the word death (死 sǐ). Locals carry charms, spell books and various trinkets in an attempt to ward off negative energy and ghosts are believed to be a reality.

As such, Ghost Month comes with a long list of rules which need to be followed. If not, then you run the risk of having a heap of misfortune, or worse yet, being possessed by a less-than-pleased spirit.

For a comprehensive list, check out 20 Things NOT To Do During Ghost Month in Taiwan!

Like the stuff of nightmares, you might be dragged down to the depths by the spirits that lay within! These unfortunate souls are the ones who drowned themselves, so taking you down with them gives these spirits a second chance at life, so they’ll be pretty determined.

Don’t Hang Out Clothes!

Hopefully, you have plenty of room and a decent dehumidifier in your house. If not, spirits will be tempted to wear those trendy threads and comfortable yoga pants themselves. It’s also the perfect way for them to disguise themselves so they can sneak into your home.

More than just ants in your pants

Don’t Whistle!

Be aware when a catchy tune comes on the radio, as whistling along is a big no-no! Your catchy melodies are said to attract spirits who like the sounds you’re making; thus, they’ll keep following you!

Don’t Take the Last Bus or Train!

All aboard the ghost train! Locals believe that the first and last transport of the day harbours the strongest yin (bad) energy. Therefore, unless you want to be taken to the afterlife by a phantom driver, try to get there on time!

All aboard

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One Comment

  • Ben Zabulis

    Great article, you really have to watch out for those pesky ghosts – they have always entertained me here in Hong Kong !

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