The Ultimate Travel Guide: Gyeongju

There are a few countries out there as criminally underestimated amongst travellers as South Korea! Its cities are bursting with relics and amusements for all interests, which are scattered between spectacular mountain ranges and unhindered forests! Yet of all South Korean cities, one is underrated more than any other. Any guide of the country would be incomplete mentioning the unbelievable breadth of history and culture that survives in the ancient capital of Gyeongju.

The city is the birthplace of what would become a mighty empire stretched across the Korean peninsula which developed into the Korea that we know today. Dubbed a “museum without walls“, the city is home to more relics, temples and tombs than anywhere else in the whole of Korea. It’s truly the best place in the entire country to immerse yourself in a time long forgotten.

The Geography

Gyeongju is a coastal city in the province of North Gyeongsang Province in the South-Eastern corner of the Korean peninsula. The city is wedged between the bigger metropolis cities of Daegu to the East and Busan to the South.

Gyeongju itself is compact and easy to navigate. So much so that everything within the city; from attractions to transport hubs are all within walking distance from each other. The rest of the attractions are scattered across the mountainous range towards the coast, all of which are easily accessible.

Attractions

Almost every one of the attractions is guide to the ancient past of Gyeongju. From temples over a thousand years old to watery tombs and dynastic relics, there is plenty for a history buff to explore! So let me guide you through some of the best sites to see in Gyeongju.

Bulguksa Temple

To start off this guide, lets look at the biggest highlight in Gyeongju. Known as hanja in Sino-Korean, which translates as “World of Buddha Temple”. In the country’s system of numbering monuments and artefacts, this particular one is placed at number one. From the time it was built under one of the nation’s most powerful empires, all the way until today, it’s seen as the most significant temple in the entire country.

Built in 528 during the height of the Silla empire, this UNESCO world heritage site was built to mark the 15^th year of one fortunate King’s reign. The temple underwent several renovations over the reigns of numerous emperors and pesky Japanese invasions. Basking in the shadows of Toham mountain, it’s quite an extraordinary scene of spiritual serenity.

Not only is the temple itself a nationally important cultural relic, but plenty more are found within the temple itself. Two of which can be seen before entering the temple; Cheongungyo bridge and Baegungyo bridge (Blue and White Cloud Bridge, respectively).

Further within the temple is Daeungjeon Hall, which houses two other nationally important relics in the form of two pagodas. These are Dabotap Pagoda and Seokgatap Pagoda, with the latter being the more elaborately designed. Both of them were lucky enough to survive Japanese destruction during unfortunate invasions. While restoring the Seokgatap Pagoda in 1966, the oldest surviving wood print book in the world was discovered within.

The list of relics continue with the Golden Seated Vairocana Buddhist Figure and the Golden Seated Amita Figure found within such halls as Nahanjeon Hall. Within the halls you’ll notice there has been little restoration done, allowing for a much more of an authentic sight.

Details:

To get there you can either head to Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal or Gyeongju Train Station take bus number 10 or 11 to Bulguksa Temple stop.

Open:
Mar-Sep – 7am – 6pm
Nov-Jan – 7:30am – 5pm
Feb – 7:30am – 5:30pm

Price: 
Adults – 5,000 Won
Teenagers – 3,500 Won
Children – Free

Dongguang Palace and Wolji Pond

You might be asking the same question as I did, why is the pond worth a mention. Surely there must be a good reason to have it permanently associated with a once mighty palace. Upon seeing it it’s clear to see why!

While walking around the koi filled ponds and surrounding forest which was once full of wildlife including deer, it becomes clear how this would be a place for an Emperor to kick back and relax. Not only was this used as a secondary palace site for the Silla kingdom, but it was also used to host banquets for important national events and important visitors.

The pond’s name was discovered carved in pottery excavated at the site, which is translated as “a pond that reflects the moon”. Although only a few structures have been recovered and reconstructed to give a rough idea of the layout, the pond itself has remained practically identical from the times of the Silla Empire.

Details:

For this, you have two options. From Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal or Gyeongju Station take bus number 600 to guide you to Anapji Entrance Bus Stop. From Singyeongju Station take bus number 50, 51 or 70.

Open: 9am-10pm

Price:
Adults – 2,000 Won
Teenagers – 1,200 Won
Children – 600 Won

Seokguram Grotto

Designated as a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995, Seokguram Grotto is located on Tohamsan Mountain. It’s unusual in that it is an entirely stone temple, constructed out of granite. The construction was started in 751 during the reign of the Silla Kingdom under Samgukyusa of the Goryeo Dynasty. This was the same man responsible for unifying the Korean peninsula at the end of the Silla Kingdom.

According to history, Seokguram was built during the same period of time as Bulguksa Temple. Bulguksa Temple was said to be built for the King’s parents in his current life, and Seokguram Grotto for the parents of his former life.

Inside the main hall, you’ll find the Bonjon Statue, Bodhi-sattva as well as his disciples. The hall and the figures within are immaculately designed with engraved markings and lotus flowers.

Details:

If you’re planning to visit here, your best option is to go via Bulguksa Temple (Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal or Gyeongju Train Station, bus number 10 or 11). From here, take bus number 12 to Seokguram Grotto.

Open:
Feb-Oct – 7am-5:30pm
Nov-Jan – 7am-5pm

Price:
Adults – 5,000 Won
Teenagers – 3,500 Won
Children – 2,500 Won

Gyeongju Tower

I still stand by my claim that this has to be the most extraordinary building I have ever seen. Standing proud just on the outskirts of the city, this has become a shining example of modern Korean architecture. Completely impractical and nothing more than an aesthetic show of architectural skill, it’s still mind-blowing to behold.

Located in the Gyeongju World Culture Expo Park, the building itself is nothing more than a showcase of architectural skill and awe-inspiring tourist fodder. It also additionally serves as an observation tower for the surrounding region, which is absolutely free. As for the park itself, it’s the site of numerous yearly expo’s from traditional Korean culture to tech conventions.

Details:

To get there head to Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal where you can take either bus number 10, 18, 100 or 150 which will guide you towards the Gyeongju World Expo Park stop. Bus number 150 happens to pass most major attractions, so the recommended one to take for the whole route.

Open:
Park – 6am-10pm
Tower admission – 10am-6pm (8pm from May-August)

Price: all free

Bunhwangsa Temple

This would be a temple of a different nature to the rest in Gyeongju. This particular temple will not be as crowd-filled as the ones previously mentioned, and superficially has less to offer. Its much more discrete, having more of a  significance to a mighty temple that once stood nearby.

The temple also holds the title of having the oldest pagoda in all of Korea which stands proud in the middle of the temple grounds. Not only does it have the strange quality of being built from bricks, but the intrinsically designed Buddhist guardians protecting each entrance and a stone lion on each corner.

This temple is situated in a very historic area, where previously an enormous developing temple/palace once stood. Today all that remains is a willow-lined field that will guide you to Gyeongju National Museum. There’s a pathway that leads through the field and the remaining stones of a once-mighty temple. It certainly provides some spectacular landscape views.

Like many other attractions found in Gyeongju, a free guide is provided upon request. Being the nature of the smaller, lesser-known temple, here guides will politely approach you and enthusiastically detail every aspect.

Details:

To get here, from Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal take bus number 10, 70 or 100 to Gyeonggo-Sageori Bus stop. Alternatively from Singyeongju Station on buses number 70 or 700 to the same stop.

Open: Sunrise-sunset

Price: 1500 Won

The Tomb of Emperor Munmu

If you didn’t know the significance of the site beforehand, it would be so easy to completely miss this national important relic. Nothing more than a small rocky islet a stone’s throw away from the coast of Bonggil-ri beach, it would be easy to pass by. However, you’d be making a big mistake.

This unassuming pile of rocks is actually the final resting place of one of the nations most powerful and important Emperors. Emperor Munmu was the man responsible for unifying the three Korean kingdoms, and shaping the modern Korea that we know today. This mighty emperors tomb was chosen out of his own request, as he believed that in his afterlife he would become a dragon that would protect the Silla kingdom from the ever so pesky Japanese.

The beach is the perfect place to sit back and reflect on its significance and the history which it holds. The site ends up leaving you with more questions than when you arrived. Is the body still there? How was it done? Was the tomb carved into stones that were there beforehand? Can I be buried like this?

Details:

Take bus number 150 from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal until the last stop at the Underwater Tomb of King Munmu.

Cheomeseong Observatory

Yet another relic of the once-mighty empire, this observatory currently holds the title of the oldest surviving observatory in Asia, possibly the entire world. Constructed between 632-646 AD, evidence of its age comes with its simple design of 362 stoned stacked in a cylindrical shape. The number of stones and intrinsic designs were incredibly deliberate. The number of stones represents the number of days in a lunar year, 12 stones at the base to symbolise the months, and 30 layers for the number of days in a month.

Literally translated as “Observe the Stars Platform“, its exact purpose was to predict to forecast upcoming weather. The observation of the stars extended to determining equinoxes and seasonal solstices, some of the earliest forms of cosmology.

Details:

From the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, there are many buses available: Number 10, 11, 60, 600 or 700 to Wolseong-dong Community Center Bus Stop. From Singyeongju Station and take bus number 60, 61 or 700 to the same stop.

Open: 9am-10pm

Price: Free

Tumuli-gongwon (Tombs of the Silla Kingdom)

The enormous grounds of the park are found in the centre of the city, and rightfully so. The scene appears as simple mounds of earth to the untrained eye, not unlike the city’s surrounding landscape. These miniature mounts house the final resting place of 23 of the Silla Kingdoms finest Emperors and family members.

Treasures found within each tumuli have been put on display in the nearby Gyeongju National Museum. Luckily, one of these excavated tombs is open to the public. These particular tumuli are known as Cheonmachong and were built as far back as the 5th century.

Inside you’ll find the remains of the coffin that stood within, as well as the decorative and aesthetic additions to it, including jade ornaments and weaponry. As well as that there are short expository pieces on how such relics and artefacts made their way to Gyeongju from as far as Europe during the kingdom’s mighty reign.

As tempting as it might be to climb atop the mounds, it wouldn’t be a wise decision. Doing so has a maximum penalty of 2 years in prison.

Details:

Open: 9am-10pm

Price: 1,500 Won

Gameunsaji Temple Site

Admittedly not at the top of the list of best attractions, having a humble selection of a pair of pagodas and the remaining foundation of a past temple.  However, it’s the sites historical significance and its godly surroundings that makes it worth a visit.

Gameunsaji Temple was originally built by King Munmu of the Silla kingdom in the 7th century, it’s one of the earliest remnants of the once-mighty Silla empire. Having only been recently discovered in 1979, very little remains other than a few foundations and the pagoda’s which have been restored.

The man who’d devised the temple was the same who unified several regional tribes to become the first unified Korean empire. Down in no part to its proximity to the coast, the purpose of the temple was to pray for protection and guidance from Buddha against possible (and eventual) Japanese invasion from the other side of the ocean.

King Munmu would not survive to see his temple completed and shortly after was cremated and buried in another nearby national monument just off the coast. The site would be the tomb of Emperor Mumnmu.

Details:

You can get there by hopping back on bus number 150 headed from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal which will guide you towards Gameunsa Temple Site stop.

Gyeongju National Museum

Gyeongju National Museum is the prime location for historical and cultural artefacts from the Silla Kingdom. Not only does it house relics from a period of time that left Gyeongju with such a rich variety of historical sites, but it also serves to continue researching this fascinating period in history.

Details:

To get there, take bus numbers 11, 600 or 603 from Gyeongju Bus Terminal or Gyeongju Train Station to Gyeongju National Museum.

Open:
Weekdays – 10am-6pm
Weekends – 10am-7pm

Price: Free

Getting There

Thankfully the once-mighty ancient capital is still easily accessible. Placed not too far from the bustling metropolises of Busan and Daegu, there are plenty of travel options. Unfortunately, in this case, Gyeongju doesn’t have an airport, therefore direct flights aren’t an option.

If flights are your only option, it’s best to fly to one of the nearest major cities (Busan or Daegu) which will be easy to get to Gyeongju from there. If you’re willing to fly within the country the closest airport can be found in Pohang and a 30-minute bus to the Gyeongju. Being that it’s a small airport, tickets aren’t the cheapest. So let me guide you on the best way to get to Gyeongju.

Trains

Gyeongju does have a train station, where regular trains arriving from all the major cities. However, these trains for the most part go via Daegu and will require a transfer.

Destination	Price	Time
Seoul	£25 – 39	3 hrs 20 mins
Daegu	£2 – 4	2 hrs
Busan	£13 – 16	2hrs 40 mins
Ulsan	£1 – 2	35 mins

Buses

This predictably would be the cheapest option, and all-round the best. From the two closest major cities (Busan and Daegu), the distance is about an hour, which actually ends up half as long as the train. The bus stations are also found directly in the middle of the cities, therefore very practical.

Destination	Price	Time
Seoul	£14 – 21	3hrs 30mins
Daegu	£2 – 4	50mins
Busan	£6	1hr
Ulsan	£4	1hr

Getting Around

When travelling around the city is concerned, your options are limit yet incredibly efficient. There are essentially two main areas where Gyeongju’s attractions can be found; within the city and towards the coast.

For the attractions within the city, transport shouldn’t be an issue. Everything is within a comfortable walking distance from each other and very easily found. To make it even easier, several vendors rent bikes for the day to allow an even easier inner-city scout.

The rest of the attractions are scattered towards the coast, which initially appears daunting trying to figure out which buses to take. Problem solved, a single bus (number 150) passes practically every attraction worth seeing up until the coast, and all the way back. This can be caught from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Station or any of the bus stops along the main road through the city. Essentially in a single day by hopping on-and-off the same bus, you’ll be able to visit each attraction.

Accommodations

Bearing in mind that despite its powerful ancient past, it’s a very modestly sized city, without the enormous metropolis infrastructure found in other cities across the country. Thus, the selection of cheap accommodation is limited.

Hostel World only has 3 hostels on offer, all close to the city centre and relatively cheap compared to Korean standards at less than £10. Alternatively, there are a fair number of hotels available both within the city itself and spread towards the coast. The cheapest single rooms start at £20 for guesthouses and such and keep on rising.

Cuisine

There are many different experiences available of both traditional Gyeongju style restaurants, as well as those presenting some examples of past dynasty’s cuisine. There is also a restaurant that offers typical Korean temple cuisine, all of which are prepared with ingredients from the local mountains. The city also has its own unique snack; known as Gyeongju Pang; bread made from red beans.